The JaYmes Escape

Some nasty looking rocks loom in the middle of the river, just where the boat was heading a couple of minutes ago. The water is a dirty brown; logs, large pieces of bamboo and various other debris float around. Very occasionally the boat bumps into something, but the Lao boatman knows his river and confidently navigates his wooden boat packed with falang (tourists) and villagers safely through the stunning jungle-covered mountains of northern Laos.

From time to time collections of wooden huts appear on the mountainside, areas of steep jungle have been cleared for livestock or rice, and sometimes the boat stops to pick up or drop off villagers carrying anything from motorcycles to crocodiles. Sometimes the boat is invaded by local children selling refreshments and big, cheap bottles of Beer Lao, which is enthusiastically welcomed by the falang.

Back at the Thai border at Chiang Khong, a longtail boat had taken me and my luggage across the Mekong to the Laos town of Huay Xai. After a night there I had boarded this, the slowboat to the spectacular town of Luang Prabang. Some way south of the border crossing the Mekong veers east, into Laos and some hours later the two day journey is broken by an overnight stop in the village of Pak Beng.

I take another sip from my bottle of Beer Lao; the long journey will be over soon, and although the scenery is stunning and the journey smooth, the boat is cramped and the wooden benches are getting tiresome. Everyone will be happy to finally arrive.